If you’ve discovered carpenter bees drilling into your wooden structures, immediate action is necessary to prevent serious damage. This guide covers effective methods for how to kill carpenter bees, including chemical treatments, natural repellents, and preventive strategies to keep these wood-boring pests from destroying your property.
Quick Picks: How to Kill Carpenter Bees
Editor’s Choice
Best Spray
Best Prevention
- Identifying Carpenter Bee Damage
- Effective Carpenter Bee Elimination Methods
- Preventive Measures: The Key to Long-Term Control
- Treatment Strategy Based on Structure Type
- Top Commercial Products for Carpenter Bee Control
- When to Apply Treatments for Maximum Effectiveness
- Safety Considerations When Treating Carpenter Bees
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Integrated Approach to Carpenter Bee Management
- Conclusion: Protecting Your Home from Carpenter Bees
- Further Reading
Identifying Carpenter Bee Damage
Before applying any control measures, it’s crucial to confirm that carpenter bees are indeed the cause of damage to your wooden structures. Here are the telltale signs:
Perfect circular entrance holes approximately 1/2 inch in diameter
Sawdust piles (frass) beneath active boring sites
Yellow staining on wood surface beneath entrance holes
Effective Carpenter Bee Elimination Methods
There are several proven methods for eliminating carpenter bees that have already established nests in your structures. Choose the approach that best fits your situation and comfort level with pesticides.
Dust Application
Insecticidal dusts applied directly into entrance holes provide long-lasting control by killing bees as they move through the galleries.
Residual Sprays
Liquid insecticides with residual activity can be applied to wood surfaces to deter new boring activity and treat existing entrances.
Natural Repellents
Essential oil-based solutions create an environment that carpenter bees avoid, offering a chemical-free alternative.
Preventive Treatments
Wood finishes, paints, and specialized treatments prevent carpenter bees from recognizing suitable nesting sites.
Insecticidal Dust Method
One of the most effective methods for eliminating existing carpenter bee infestations is the application of insecticidal dust directly into active nest entrances.
Delta Dust Method
- Works deep inside galleries
- Kills both adult bees and larvae
- Remains effective for up to 8 months
- Waterproof formulation
- Requires minimal amount per hole
D-Fense Dust Method
- Quick-acting deltamethrin formula
- Effective in cracks and crevices
- Lasts up to 6 months
- Works in humid conditions
- Dual-action contact and residual
Tempo Dust Method
- Fast-acting cyfluthrin formula
- Penetrates deep into galleries
- Low odor application
- Effective for up to 3 months
- Works against resistant populations
When applying any insecticidal dust, always wear appropriate protective equipment including gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask. Apply during evening hours when bees are less active and inside their nests.
How to Apply Insecticidal Dust:
- Wait for the right time
Apply dust in the evening when bees are less active and most likely to be inside their galleries. - Use proper equipment
Use a hand duster with a thin extension tube that can reach into the bee holes. Professional dusters with curved tips work best for reaching into galleries. - Apply dust properly
Insert the duster tip into the entrance hole and give a short puff to disperse dust throughout the gallery. A little goes a long way—overuse can cause bees to avoid treated areas. - Wait before sealing
Allow 24-48 hours for the dust to work before sealing the entrance holes. This ensures bees traveling through the galleries contact the insecticide. - Seal the entrances
After the waiting period, seal entrance holes with wood putty, caulk, or a wooden dowel coated with wood glue to prevent re-colonization.
Residual Spray Treatments
Liquid insecticide sprays provide an effective way to treat both active nests and prevent new carpenter bee activity on vulnerable wooden surfaces.
| Product | Active Ingredient | Duration | Best For | Application Method |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spectracide Carpenter Bee Killer | Prallethrin, Lambda-cyhalothrin | 2-4 weeks | Direct nest treatment | Spray directly into entrance holes |
| FenvaStar EcoCap | Esfenvalerate | 30-60 days | Surface protection | Dilute and spray on vulnerable surfaces |
| Tengard SFR | Permethrin | 30-90 days | Preventive treatment | Monthly application to exterior wood |
| Cypermethrin | Cypermethrin | 30 days | Log cabins, cedar homes | Mix 1 oz per gallon, apply bi-weekly |
Natural Carpenter Bee Repellents
For those seeking chemical-free alternatives, several natural repellents have shown effectiveness in deterring carpenter bees from wooden structures.
Outlast NBS 30
- Plant oil-derived formula
- Low toxicity to humans and pets
- Can be added to paint or stain
- Environmentally friendly option
- Prevents bees from boring into wood
Essential Oil Blend
- Mix of citronella, tea tree, and lavender oils
- Completely natural solution
- Pleasant scent for humans
- Repels multiple insect types
- Easy to make at home
Almond Oil Treatment
- Natural wood conditioner
- Deters carpenter bees
- Enhances wood appearance
- Non-toxic to beneficial insects
- Safe for use around children and pets
DIY Essential Oil Repellent Recipe
- 2 tablespoons citronella oil
- 1 tablespoon lavender oil
- 1 tablespoon tea tree oil
- 1 tablespoon jojoba oil (carrier oil)
- 2 cups water
- 1 teaspoon dish soap (to help oils mix with water)
Mix all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake well before each use. Apply to wooden surfaces where carpenter bees are active. Reapply every 1-2 weeks or after rain.
Preventive Measures: The Key to Long-Term Control
While active treatments are essential for existing infestations, preventing carpenter bees from targeting your wooden structures is the most effective long-term strategy.
Carpenter bees strongly prefer raw, untreated wood. Implementing the following preventive measures can make your wooden structures significantly less attractive to these persistent pests.
- Paint or finish exposed wood
Apply paint, polyurethane, or marine varnish to all exposed wooden surfaces. Carpenter bees are much less likely to bore into painted or treated wood than raw wood. - Fill existing holes
Seal any existing carpenter bee holes with wood putty, caulking compound, or wooden dowels coated with wood glue. This prevents reuse of old galleries and discourages new nest creation. - Replace damaged wood
For severely infested sections, remove and replace the affected wood with pressure-treated lumber that naturally resists carpenter bee activity. - Consider alternative materials
When replacing wooden components, consider using vinyl, fiber cement, or composite materials that carpenter bees cannot penetrate. - Add repellent to paint
Mix specialized carpenter bee repellent additives into your paint or stain for extended protection against boring activity.
Carpenter bees usually reuse holes from the preceding season, so fill all holes in the fall after bee activity has ceased. Preventive treatments should be applied in early spring before the new nesting season begins.
Treatment Strategy Based on Structure Type
Different wooden structures may require specialized approaches for effective carpenter bee control. Here are tailored strategies for common vulnerable areas:
| Structure Type | Vulnerable Areas | Recommended Treatment | Prevention Strategy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Log Cabins | Entire exposed surface | Cypermethrin spray (1 oz per gallon) | Apply penetrating oil-based stain with repellent additive |
| Traditional Homes | Fascia boards, eaves, soffits | Targeted dust application to holes, residual spray on surfaces | Paint all exposed wood, seal gaps with caulk |
| Wooden Decks | Rails, posts, underside of boards | FenvaStar EcoCap on surfaces, dust in existing holes | Use pressure-treated lumber, apply water sealant annually |
| Fences | Top rails, posts | Spray treatment during early morning or evening | Cap posts with metal covers, use paint or stain |
Top Commercial Products for Carpenter Bee Control
Delta Dust Insecticide
Editor's ChoiceHow Does It Work
How to Use
- Use a hand duster with a thin extension tube for precise application
- Apply in the evening when bees are less active and inside their galleries
- Insert the duster tip into entrance holes and puff a small amount of dust inside
- Allow 24-48 hours for the dust to work before sealing entrance holes
- Wear appropriate protective equipment during application
- Waterproof formula remains effective in high humidity
- Provides long-lasting residual control
- Reaches deep into galleries where bees hide
- Kills both adult bees and developing larvae
- Small amount provides significant coverage
- Requires specialized duster for proper application
- May drift during windy conditions
- Must be kept dry until application
- Precautions needed to avoid inhalation
Spectracide Carpenter Bee & Ground-Nesting Yellowjacket Killer
Best SprayHow Does It Work
How to Use
- Spray in the evening when carpenter bees are less active
- Stand a safe distance away and direct the jet stream into entrance holes
- Treat each hole for 4-5 seconds until slightly wet
- Wait 24 hours before sealing treated holes
- For preventive treatment, spray around vulnerable wooden areas
- Powerful jet spray reaches difficult areas without ladders
- Fast-acting formula kills on contact
- Easy to use with no mixing required
- Treats multiple nests with one can
- Works on both carpenter bees and other stinging insects
- Shorter residual protection than dust treatments
- May require multiple applications
- Not effective for deep galleries without direct contact
- Strong odor during application
WD-40 Specialist Woodsman
Best PreventionHow Does It Work
How to Use
- Clean and dry wooden surfaces before application
- Spray or brush onto untreated wood surfaces
- Allow to penetrate for 10-15 minutes
- Apply a second coat for maximum protection
- Reapply annually or when water no longer beads on treated surfaces
- Provides multiple benefits: pest prevention, water resistance, and UV protection
- Non-toxic alternative to traditional insecticides
- Enhances natural wood appearance
- Easy application with spray or brush
- Long-lasting protection with annual maintenance
- Not effective for active infestations
- Requires complete coverage to be effective
- May darken some wood types
- Higher initial cost than some alternatives
When to Apply Treatments for Maximum Effectiveness
Timing your carpenter bee control efforts is crucial for success. Different treatment approaches are optimal depending on the season and level of bee activity.
| Season | Bee Activity | Best Treatment Approach | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Early Spring (March-April) |
Adults emerging from hibernation, seeking nest sites | Preventive sprays, early trapping | Critical prevention window before nesting begins |
| Late Spring (May-June) |
Peak boring activity, egg-laying | Direct treatment of holes, residual sprays | Apply treatments in evening when bees are in nests |
| Summer (July-August) |
Larvae developing, some adult activity | Maintenance sprays, dust application | Treatment interval: every 2-4 weeks depending on product |
| Fall (September-October) |
Reduced activity, preparing for hibernation | Seal holes, apply preventive treatments | Ideal time for repairs and long-term prevention |
Most liquid insecticides should not be applied during rainy conditions or when rain is expected within 24 hours. High winds can also reduce effectiveness and increase drift concerns. Apply treatments on calm, dry days for best results.
Safety Considerations When Treating Carpenter Bees
While controlling carpenter bees is important to protect your property, safety should always be the top priority during any pest control operation.
- Use appropriate protective equipment
Always wear gloves, eye protection, and a mask when applying insecticides. For dust applications, use a respirator rated for particulates. - Follow label instructions
Read and follow all product label instructions carefully. The label is the law—using products in ways not specified on the label is illegal and potentially dangerous. - Protect beneficial insects
Target applications directly into carpenter bee holes rather than broadcast spraying, which can harm beneficial pollinators. Apply treatments in the evening when most bees are inside nests and other pollinators are less active. - Keep pets and children away
Ensure children and pets are kept away from treated areas until products have dried completely or according to label instructions. - Store products properly
Store all pest control products in their original containers, out of reach of children and pets, in a cool, dry location away from food and water sources.
Male carpenter bees, which are often seen hovering near nests, cannot sting. Females can sting but rarely do unless directly handled or threatened. Understanding this behavior can help reduce unnecessary fear during treatment.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to kill carpenter bees?
The time required to eliminate carpenter bees varies by treatment method:
- Contact sprays: Kill within minutes to hours on direct contact
- Dust applications: Usually eliminate bees within 24-48 hours
- Residual sprays: May take 1-3 days for full effectiveness
- Natural repellents: Drive bees away within days but may not kill them
For complete elimination of an infestation, including larvae inside galleries, allow 1-2 weeks after treatment before sealing holes.
Will vinegar kill carpenter bees?
While vinegar is sometimes suggested as a natural carpenter bee deterrent, it is not highly effective as a direct killing agent. Vinegar can function as a short-term repellent when sprayed around wooden surfaces, but it:
- Evaporates quickly, requiring frequent reapplication
- Does not penetrate into galleries where bees nest
- Lacks residual action to prevent new infestations
- May damage wood finishes if used at full strength
For better results with natural solutions, consider essential oil blends or almond oil applications that have longer-lasting repellent properties.
Do carpenter bees come back to the same place?
Yes, carpenter bees have strong site fidelity and typically return to the same areas year after year. They prefer to:
- Reuse existing galleries, extending them for new brood cells
- Create new holes near successful previous nesting sites
- Return to wooden structures with established colonies
- Bring new generations back to favorable locations
This behavior makes sealing holes and applying preventive treatments especially important for long-term control.
What smell do carpenter bees hate?
Carpenter bees are repelled by several strong scents that can be used as natural deterrents:
- Citrus oils (lemon, orange, grapefruit)
- Citronella oil
- Tea tree oil
- Lavender oil
- Almond oil
- Cedar oil
- Peppermint oil
- Eucalyptus oil
You can create effective repellent sprays by mixing 15-20 drops of these essential oils with water and a small amount of dish soap in a spray bottle. Apply to wood surfaces every 1-2 weeks during active seasons.
Does WD-40 repel carpenter bees?
Regular WD-40 has limited effectiveness against carpenter bees. While the strong petroleum odor may temporarily deter bees, it:
- Evaporates quickly, providing only short-term repellency
- Can damage wood finishes and paint
- Does not offer long-term protection against boring
- Is not labeled or designed for pest control purposes
For better results, use WD-40 Specialist Woodsman, which is specifically formulated to protect wood while creating a surface carpenter bees find unattractive for nesting.
Is it better to kill carpenter bees or trap them?
Both methods have their place in an integrated pest management approach:
- Trapping: More environmentally friendly, reduces populations without chemicals, but may take longer to achieve control
- Chemical treatments: Provides faster and more complete elimination, especially for established infestations, but involves pesticide use
The best approach often combines both methods—using traps for prevention and population reduction while employing targeted chemical treatments for active galleries causing structural damage.
Do carpenter bees damage homes?
Yes, carpenter bees can cause significant structural damage to homes over time:
- Individual tunnels extend 4-6 inches into wood
- Multiple generations reuse and extend galleries year after year
- Connected tunnels can eventually span several feet
- Water can enter holes, causing rot and further weakening wood
- Woodpeckers may damage wood further when hunting for bee larvae
While a single bee causes minimal damage, repeated infestations in the same area can eventually compromise structural integrity, especially in load-bearing elements.
Will painting wood prevent carpenter bees?
Yes, painting is one of the most effective preventive measures against carpenter bees. Painted surfaces are significantly less attractive to carpenter bees because:
- Bees cannot easily grip smooth, painted surfaces
- Paint seals wood pores, making boring more difficult
- The scent of raw wood that attracts bees is masked
- Paint creates a barrier that bees must penetrate before reaching wood
For best results, use exterior-grade oil-based or latex paint and ensure all surfaces, including undersides of elements like fascia boards and eaves, are thoroughly coated.
Integrated Approach to Carpenter Bee Management
The most effective carpenter bee control combines multiple methods in a comprehensive management plan:
Inspection
Regularly check wooden structures for signs of carpenter bee activity, especially in early spring and fall.
Prevention
Paint or finish wood surfaces, seal cracks, and apply preventive treatments before infestation occurs.
Targeted Control
Apply appropriate treatments directly to active nests rather than broadcasting chemicals.
Maintenance
Regularly inspect, repair damage, and refresh treatments to prevent reinfestation.
Conclusion: Protecting Your Home from Carpenter Bees
Carpenter bee control requires vigilance and a multi-faceted approach. By combining preventive measures with targeted treatments, you can effectively protect your wooden structures from these persistent pests.
Remember that early detection and intervention are key to preventing serious damage. Regular inspection of vulnerable wooden areas, especially in early spring, can help you identify and address carpenter bee activity before significant damage occurs.
Whether you choose chemical treatments, natural repellents, or physical barriers, consistent application and maintenance of your chosen method will provide the best long-term results in keeping carpenter bees from damaging your home.
Further Reading
For more information about carpenter bee control methods, consult these authoritative resources:
- DIY Pest Control: Complete Guide to Carpenter Bee Control – Step-by-step instructions for various treatment methods
- Best Bee Brothers: How to Get Rid of Carpenter Bees – Natural methods and alternative approaches to chemical treatments
- Log Home: Expert Insights for Carpenter Bee Management – Recommendations from entomologists for protecting wooden structures
- Homes & Gardens: 9 Expert Solutions for Deterring Carpenter Bees – Comprehensive advice from multiple pest control professionals
delta dust. puff into holes at night. kills them fast. remaining dust in holes is like a trap that will kill all other insects that try to crawl inside. seal up the holes in fall with caulk.
I hired a so called carpenter bee expert, recommended by a pest control company. What a joke, he sprayed a water and dawn mixture into holes that were high, under my deck. I saw one come out and die, the problem is that the eggs were probably already laid inside. You can spot their holes by looking for a wood dust residue, coming down from the hole. So I paid a big fee for a small benefit. I have been fighting them ever since, and would love to enjoy my deck and give that guy a piece of my mind!
For those with bees coming in through holes in the concrete and apparently living in the wall adjacent the hole: Have you tried a permethrin or pyrethrum-based fogger? I’ve used Raid Concentrated Deep Reach Fogger against yellow jackets that entered and nested similarly, and it worked well, applied after dark when they were all in the nest for the night. They could be heard buzzing furiously for a minute or two, then silence. Not sure if this would work for your situation and against carpenter bees, but might be worth a try; 4 1.5oz cans cost me less than $8. You’d start the fogger, shove the nozzle into the hole, then seal around the can against the cement/hole by whatever means; perhaps a water soaked towel. Best of luck.
Put ip one of the traps with plastic bottle , it is full of bee’s and seems like i have twice the amount buzzing around? Very confused by this, semms like they are being replaced faster than being killed……
I have tried every year to paint inside the holes the bees have noted..they come back each year and use same holes, then bore more…I bought 3 in 1 oil instead of wd40….forgot which one it said so trying it on a cotton ball and stuffing the hole up….hope they leave, can’t walk out my front door…
I have used Black Flag flying insect spray and watched them die. How to do it and not to do it? First, trying to spray a moving object was useless for me primarily due to wind. Even if there was no wind, they moved quickly as soon as they saw the spray coming at them. So, I changed how to approach them. Since they are seek flower pollen, when I saw one land on a flower I grabbed my spray and quietly approached behind them so they could not see me or were too busy eating. I sprayed once and it took about 20 seconds for it to die after it fell to the ground.
One thing that I am reading is that you have to know when the right time of the year it is to plug up the holes and when it is useless. In the spring the female lays an egg. The egg turns to larvae and then pupates to an adult. The new adult emerges in the fall. AFTER the new adult emerges it will feed and store food for the winter in the hole it came from. This is the time to spray with insecticide and then seal the hole a few days later. It is useless to treat a hole anytime between the eggs being planted by the female and their emergence as adults because the mother protects her “children” just as human parents protect their unborn child in the mothers womb by creating a sealed chamber within the hole that is impervious to sprayed insecticides.
you can kill some with traps however you will never put a dent in them !! ive been battling them with diesel fuel with a little motor oil mixed in / killed thousands / I am finally switching my wood out for treated wood painted with a Sherwin Williams additive / I have been fighting the bore bees for 10 / I recently was stung by one
GOOD LUCK !!
I have the carpenter bees traps, that I left in place over the winter with the plastic soda bottle underneath. Now they don’t seen interested in these traps. Any 0ne know why?
I bought carpenter bees traps but what would I use to attract them.
I’ve got a log cabin and they are really bad this year.
I am going to get Drione and use it on existing holes but want to utilize the traps that I purchased also
The claim that carpenter bees will not bore through paint ( or stain, oil or acrylic ) is just plain wrong, or that they will not bother pressure treated wood – also wrong, or that they will not bore into maple or oak – also wrong.
If I had a dollar for everytime I’ve seen and treated a carpenter bee hole in painted, stained, or pressure-treated wood I could buy a small country. I’ve seen them bore into oak handles of shovels, oak, teak, and maple outdoor furniture.
The claim that you can kill them all by simply caulking up the holes is one of the biggest errors. These are nature’s natural drilling machines, they are NOT going to sit in those galleries ( tunnels ) and die because some rube sealed that hole up; they can and will simply bore out of the wood somewhere else. You cannot seal those holes up until Fall, and ONLY if you killed every bee and larvae in there first.
I killed or rather shot over 500 today with a mixture of diesel fuel and motor oil! You don’t have to get a direct hit. Most after being sprayed head for there hole never to return, occasionally a direct hit will bring them down immediately! As for pair, I’ve seen them go in a hole when the paint was still wet! The real dilemma is you have to kill the resident bore bees & the surrounding colonies! I use a gallon of diesel per week to put it in perspective.
Good luck in the battle of the bore bees!!
use and all purpose 3 or 4 dollar spray bottle / use diesel fuel /
this does not immediately kill them / if you see them going in a hole – you wont see them again / its the battle of the bore bees !!
paints and wood sealants do not work. An oil based clear Concrete sealant will work. If you can find active holes petroleum based sprays (“WD-40”) definitely will kill them if they are in there. afterwards caulk the holes with “liquid nails”, or you can caulk without using the
“WD-40”. Bee Traps are also effective but hornet / wasps like to make their nests in them also. I hunt for holes during the day and arm myself with “WD-40” right at dusk or shortly afterwards. caulk in the morning
Spray paint in the hole, or in the air, no matter . Sticky wings at first , but the paint dries an they can no longer fly.
No one should be killing these bees. Too bad the bees can’t attach you all like you attack them.
You have a “lack of Knowledge” You have not seen what destruction these pests can do. I would kill every one of these bees that I could.
Most pesticides have a patroleum base / get one gallon of diesel and add 1/4 quart of motor oil / use and all purpose spray bottle / set the sprayer for a tight bead able to reach out 12 ft / when you see one go in the hole you are unlikely to see that one again unless they almost immediately come back out / its easy to put a dent in the resident population however the neighboring colonies will repopulate when the population is depleted!
Good shooting
Go back to work at PETA
Why is tempo dust can’t be sold in ny?
Home Depot has a product called Wasp & Hornet Killer by Spectracide. I sprayed a carpenter bee as it was leaving the nest and it died in a few seconds. I also sprayed into the 1/2 inch hole. So far only one bee was found dead. If I do not see any more I will spray again tomorrow morning with Spectracide Carpenter Bee and Yellow Jacket Killer foaming aersol. It comes with a red plastic straw to insert in the hole. If that doesn’t work onto Tempo Dust
Vinegar and dawn dish soap to repel. I bought some orange pull which I will try as well. The vinegar and soap worked for about a week. I had hundreds, now I have maybe 20. Traps suck, carpenter bee spray…they go right in after I spray, electric hand zapper…they fall down and fly away. No particular measurement…regular white vinegar and any scent of dawn.
Hoping the orange pull lasts longer.
*orange oil
Did they orange oil work?
I can’t buy Tempo Dust in CT. What’s the next best thing?
Tempo dust…Just don’t spray it in the rivers
diatomaceous earth – food grade – good for in the garden also.
Foolproof…..take a wet vac…put in on suction right under the hole…let it run all day….even next day if you have to…gets them coming and going….no chemicals…then seal area
Where does one get the Tempo Dust?
I ordered mine from Amazon. There are also websites for “do it yourself” pest control from which it can be ordered.
ROUND UP IS THE ANSWER!!!!
My house was their target several years ago, didnt really pay that much attention to the matter. didnt know it would turn out to such an infestation. I have tried everything you could possibally think of, some things worked a little bit. Other things didnt work at all. Got so mad, and so desperate cause I couldnt get a instant result, so I just tried spraying some roundup in 1 of the many many holes in my facial board, well to my suprise, 1 fell out dead! I waited a while watched it and it never moved again! Instant results! If u feel as I do about these pest, then I strongly recommend roundup! It worked for me! I think that their r plenty of these pest in the world, and for someone to kill all of the ones that have infested their home is not even going to put a slight dent in the population.
The holes are UNDER my shed and I can’t get to them. They have been coming back for years. They are so bad now that I can’t get to my car without being swarmed. How do you treat the holes if you can’t get to them? Last year I bought a carpenter bee trap and only one got caught. Is there something I can spray on the trap that may attract them? We replaced most of the wood on the deck with a material they do not like. Under the deck is still wood, but they prefer the shed.
most carpenter traps, i call might or maybe traps, cause they might or maybe go into the traps. there is no way to entice a carpenter bee into any trap, except to get your existing nests killed and plugged and a treatment put on your wood, the you can hang a trap mounted close to the edge but where it will stays dry. the bees that are out will most likely go into the trap. bobby glover, carpenter bee control,llc
Thank you I still have the trap I bought last year.
spray tempo dust on ground where they enter
Thank you I will buy some and hope it helps.
check a couple of comments down – round up didn’t which product.
For fun, I use a 22 caliber pistol, 4″ barrel with rat shot and have killed more than you would believe. Not very economical, but it sure is fun. I just catch them as they hover before they go under the eave of the barn and squeeze off a round. Country boy method and no homes other than my own so no harm done elsewhere. I did read and tried it where you could stuff cotton in the hole at night, cover the hole with duct tape and using a syringe penetrate the tape and into the cotton as you inject ammonia in it. Some are so high though can’t get to them safely, hence the pistol.
That was good!!!!
Help! We have a Lot of the bees just as we go out my back door. They are in the corner of our old wooden Garage. They have been there for several years, I have ask my husband to remove the siding on the garage and deal with them in the winter, but here it is summer again. We need help. I fear when we remove to masonary boards we well find a wall full. We need some emergency measures.
Where do you get these orange oils?
I bought it online from National Chemical.
Hi can you provide the exact name through national chemical? Thanks
Cold Pressed Orange Oil – on the bottle, it says ‘Distributed by: FactoryDirectChemicals’. These guys were the cheapest I found (it’s not cheap). If you want ‘easy’, Amazon sells it. Hope this helps.
What strength vinegar do you recommend? I bought 30% (thinking stronger is better); mixed it with the orange oil and sprayed, but they are back. I think they are boring on the underside of my deck. I sprayed as well as I could under the deck, while standing at the edge, but I am afraid to crawl under there on my back.
Dusting the holes is the best way, They dust remains active for weeks and kills anything coming or going
orange oil. HA! THEY HATE IT AND NEVER CAME BACK
I gave up I just burnt my entire cabin down, I win they lose..
The bees are under my shed and I cannot get to the holes.
I have not had any luck in killing the carpenter bees with the foaming aerosol spray (cannot connect with them). I had pretty good luck with the aerosol spray that sprays out in a wider spray. I cannot find any of that locally any more. Where can I get the non-foam spray?
just retrieved a custom bumblebee trap from a guys house, i left it in place over a vent in concrete foundation wall, musta had 25 bumble bees in it.
Just noticed a silver dollar size hole in my cinder block next to my dryer vent. Sprayed a whole can of wasp spray in the hole 2 weeks ago when I noticed bees where going into the hole which at the time was not there. I killed 2 bees inside my house this weekend and am worried they are now in the house. Need some advise and fast. Didn’t know bees burrowed into concrete. Any advice will be appreciated!
Jim, I have the same problem. The bees have opened a silver dollar sized hole in my exterior concrete block wall. I’ve found two bees inside my bathroom which is the interior of that wall. I killed them very easily by spraying them with rubbing alcohol. But I have not been able to kill any of them outside with anytthing I’ve tried ( five different brands of wasp, hornet and yellow jacket aerosols and break cleaner. I’m at my wits end!
What oil is best to get rid of bees from my home and how much ratio in spray bottle some tell me peppermint oil or almond oil which is stronger that bees hate and go away ….please tell me how much water ans oil to put in spray bottle to spray outside my window …ty
Starting tearing down an old wood garage. Needles to say I found these large carpenter bees flying into my face. I was scared as hell tell I read that males don’t sting, they just fly into you. The female whom is all black can sting, but is reluctant until provoked. Trying to kill them sounds like provoking them. I used wd 40 on landing surfaces. Wasp killer in the holes. Fill them until it runs out. Wait til night or early morning. Spay again and caulk the holes. Observe them from a distance to see if there are more and repeat.
THANK YOU FOR ALL THE INFO GIVEN ABOUT THE PESTKILL
I have a severe infestation on my wood camp. Originally killed as many as I could with a racket but couldn’t keep up. A friend brought some Bengal Roach spray with the little red tube to insert in their holes. Amazing results. Literally killed hundreds. I always thought one hole one bee, until we watched 17 come out of one hole, 12 out of another.
Now I have to try to repair wood damage.
BTW woodpeckers have done as much or more damage as the bees.
The woodpecker’s or after the Bee’s.
you can spray most anything on a flying carpenter bee, it won’t work. their wings are moving so fast as to defect the spray. if they land though it is totally different situation most anything from wd40 to wasp sray will kill them.
I use cypermethrin in a wettable powder form (Demon WP) and apply with a large pier sprayer. It gives you a good result but it is only temporary. If you only have a few bees keep after it diligently. Once you get to the point of hundreds of these, you’re in trouble. I have noticed that log homes treated with a “hard finish” like polyurethane helps a lot, but I don’t like the shiny appearance.
I own a pest control company and have noticed a significant increase in carpenter bees lately. While pest control operators know more about this than the average guy, we don’t have a perfect answer yet. No offense to log homes, but I would never own one.
Vaseline mixed with drione dust where they enter and into nest, Apply with putty knife use lots
Don’t kill them they are important insects. Use Medina Orange oil, 1/2 cup to one pint of white vinegar. Spray the holes, they will be gone forever.
Rosemary – Do you use just plain white vinegar that they sell in the grocery stores? I bought 30% vinegar and mixed it with the Orange Oil, but they are back.
I sprayed in the winter while they were gone and I’ve sprayed since they came back.
I don’t want to kill them, either, but they are making me a prisoner – I can’t go out on my back deck.
If you have any other suggestions, I’d really appreciate the input. Thanks!
Don’t work, I tried everything to get these things away from eating my aluminum capped freeze boards..EVERYTHING AND ANYTHING, the bee houses I made worked at first until they started hanging out in the holes, VASELINE in holes just fell out, orange oil they just buzzed there wings or eluded it. every poison out there I tried. UNTIL VICTORY!! It took three years but I killed over 70 of them in one day by Tempo dust in holes and on wood and all around the holes which were 27′- 32′ in the air They started dropping like water. The amount of damage they did is in the thousands. Lucky I am a contractor and know how to replace the damaged freeze board.. Save them……… yea right .. make sure the dust you are using is real. Crooks are selling fake stuff
BOGUS!!! Orange oil does nothing
Rosemary they are not important insects! They are not native and are starving out the regular pollinators like honey bees. They are bigger and consume far more.
gees, you are anonymous and I have my entire name there. I don’t know, I read that they are pollinators just like wasps are.
I have used 3 different kinds of wasp and hornet jet sprays and sprayed them directly in the face and it didn’t do ANYTHING to them!! Why is that spray not working??!!!
your missing them
Regular wasp/hornet sprays will not kill. You have to use the spray specifically labeled carpenter bee. However, the only one I have been able to locate this year is a foam spray. It is about impossible to hit them with the one stream of foam.
Try CRC Red Can Brake Cleaner Its On sale For abput 3.00 a cn sometimes Works Great an Cheaper than Wasp Or Anyother Bee Spray.
Sadly I did kill 3 yesterday, with my wasp hornet spray that I bought at HD, spray the hole, wait…, they started buzzing and sprayed at them while they were getting out… they are good pollinators, that’s why
I’m going to try tonight the “Moving” option, by getting them a “New Bee House” by sealing holes first during the day…
I don’t know Kelly but I’m in the same boat!! I’ve used 5 different brands of wasp, hornet and yellow jacket sprays (foaming and not foaming) and they couldn’t care less! They fly right through it like it was water. I’ve even used brake cleaner and regular isopropyl rubbing alcohol and all I have to show for it is frustration!!
i have had the same experience spraying them with raid and carb cleaner. seems like their wings blow it away from them
what ratio of jojoba oil, tree tea oil, lavender oil, and citronella oil per gallon of water.
Thank you.
I used about 1/2 cup of Medina orange oil to a pint of vinegar. This is what I will continue to use if I need to. Since i sprayed the holes with Medina Orange Oil I haven’t seen a carpenter bee and i have been trying to get rid of them for 2 years now.I even plugged the holes last fall. They came back and bored holes a couple inches away this spring. Get this oil, I use it with vinegar to kill weeds and unwanted grass too.
if i spray the oil under my deck and some drops on my lawn, or pretty plants, will it kill them, should i water my lawn and plants just after?
Thanks
doesn’t work
Crc brakekleen killes good but u goota find cheap i use whilw they are fling or Boring never tried anything else i just built Some Carpenter Bee Traps Ill see how they do im a Log Cabin guy so there Horrible
“If you paint the wood, you will not have to deal with unpleasant carpenter bees.”
Wrong. I have thick coats of quality exterior paint on cedar fascia and rough-sawn plywood soffit (very hard). They bore into both.
And I’ve used various recommended “natural” products for several applications (fungus, leaf-curl, white-fly, etc.). Natural = ineffective in my experience.
Have you tried Carb Cleaner?
Not yet 🙂
Wd40 works great
I just tried WD40 and it does work.
But still watch out for your dogs.
I will try tonight with wd 30
Carb Cleaner did not work either or us. Easy to get into the wood too, but the bees did not seem to care they are still inside the retaining wood wall .
TEMPO DUST
Yup, didnt work. Neither did brakleen. They are tough to kill
Joe is correct! Wood bees are boring through my painted deck. They don’t care if it is painted or not.
I treated the flat surfaces of my post & beam home in NC with Bayers Advanced this year as I have done the last 3 spring seasons except the freshly painted surfaces of the posts & beams. I was told the bees do not bore into painted or stained surfaces, but to my surprise the culprit was hard at boring into my 1 year ago, dark painted deco beam and didn’t care that I watched. So I suggest that the adage of “If you paint the wood, you will not have to deal with unpleasant carpenter bees,” is a false narrative. Spray everywhere and don’t try to second guess these destructive drilling machines.
I used orange oil with a garden sprayer that had a bit of vinegar still in the container. It has been 72 hours now and they won’t go near the 4 holes. BTW, I used concrete to patch the 1/2 inch holes and they just bored a few inches to the side of the apinted wood. I intend to keep spraying the oil if I see them again and then i will again patch the holes in the fall. something has to eventually work.
Tempo dust in holes..knocks them down dead (all of them). I tried everything and anything nothing worked until I tried this.
thank you. I will try this next
Did the orange oil/vinegar spray work long term?
Carpenter Bees hate tennis rackets
Thanks you so very much all the information you provided was very helpful.